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A Flask, a Flapjack and a Plan B: Coastal Lunches for Mixed Mull Weather

Mull Escape
A Flask, a Flapjack and a Plan B: Coastal Lunches for Mixed Mull Weather

Photo: DeFacto, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Picnics on Mull are rarely the checked-tablecloth sort. You find a rock, tuck your flask into a jacket, and eat while a shower moves across the Sound. That is part of the appeal. But a little planning turns a damp sandwich in a car park into a proper coastal lunch.

The trick is to choose spots with options. Shelter within a short walk, a tide that does not trap you, and a cafe or village within easy reach if the sky really opens. These five are not secret. They are simply reliable.

Pack for four seasons in one lunch

Think layers, not luxury. A thermos of soup or tea, a waterproof sit mat, a decent rain jacket and a bag for rubbish will do more for your lunch than a fancy hamper. Bring something that survives being squashed: bread, cheese, oatcakes, fruit, a slice of cake. Pick up supplies in Tobermory, Bunessan or Fionnphort where you can. A flask is not old-fashioned on Mull. It is essential kit.

Read the forecast like a local

Check the wind direction as well as the rain. A west-coast beach can be glorious in an easterly and brutal in a westerly. Tide times matter too: a beach that is broad at low water can shrink to a strip at high. The Met Office gives you the big picture; a tide table gives you the practical one. If the radar shows a band of rain, do not cancel the day. Move your lunch earlier or later, or pick the spot with trees behind it.

Calgary Bay

Calgary is the obvious one, and it deserves it. The beach is wide, the water is clear, and the machair behind it gives you a place to sit out of the wind. There is woodland shelter at the back of the beach if a shower comes through, and toilets by the car park. At high tide the sand narrows, so keep an eye on the water if you are exploring the rocks. If the weather turns properly, drive to Dervaig or Tobermory for a hot drink. Access is easy: car park, short walk, no drama.

Uisken Beach

Uisken, on the Ross of Mull, feels like a beach at the end of a lane because it is. The single-track road keeps the crowds down, and the dunes and low rocks at the northern end give you somewhere to tuck in if the wind picks up. At low tide there is plenty of sand; at high tide it is more of a shingle edge, so time your lunch around the tide table. Bunessan is a short drive away for a shop or a cafe if the sky changes. Bring cash for honesty boxes.

Langamull Beach

Langamull is a walk-in beach, which makes the picnic feel earned. You park near the track and follow the path through woodland and open ground for around half an hour. The trees give you shelter on the way and at the back of the beach, and the sand is quiet even in summer. The tide comes in quickly, so do not set up too close to the water. If it rains, retreat to the woods or drive back to Dervaig. This is a good spot for walkers who want a beach without a car park crowd.

Loch Buie

Loch Buie is a south-coast favourite with a proper sense of occasion: a pebble beach, a ruined castle, and hills behind. The old pier and the trees near the head of the loch give you shelter options, and the tide leaves plenty of room at low water. Access is by single-track road; park considerately near the loch head. If the weather closes in, Craignure is the nearest practical backup for a cafe or a shop.

Fidden Beach

Fidden, near Fionnphort, is a patchwork of machair, rock and white sand. The low rocky outcrops make natural windbreaks, and at low tide the flats seem to go on forever. At high tide the water comes right in, so pick your spot with care. The car park is close, which makes it easy to retreat if the rain arrives. Fionnphort has cafes and the ferry to Iona, so you can turn a washed-out picnic into an afternoon elsewhere.

The change-in-weather drill

If the first drops arrive, do not stubbornly sit it out. Move to the sheltered side of the beach, put on your jacket, and give it ten minutes. If it settles in, switch to plan B: the car, a cafe, a woodland walk. A picnic does not have to be a full afternoon. Sometimes it is a flask and a sandwich in a beautiful place between showers.

Leave it as you found it

Take all rubbish home, close gates, and do not light fires. Mull's coast is working countryside as well as a playground. A good picnic leaves nothing behind but footprints and a vague plan to come back.

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